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Ballyvaughan
Burrens
Ennis
Tuesday, September 11th
Kinvara, Kilfenora, Ballyvaughan, Burrens
Traveled out to the burrens. We went to the Caherconnell Stone Fort near Kinvarra the center for the burrens. It is a ring fort dating back to 1000AD. It’s all about the stone walls. Who knew the methods that could be used? We also got to see an early Portal tomb (Poulnabrone Dolmen) made of massive stones from the Neolithic period. But best of all we got to ramble on the burrens, the ocean bed without water. Magnificent. When we reached St. Fachanan's Cathedral, Kilfenora, Co. Clare the gates were locked so we had to look in through the windows but then at 10:00 the gate keeper arrived on his tractor and let us in. Being the first there we were able to photograph without other tourist around. It was there we got to see our first Celtic carvings.
Drove through the town of Ballyvaughan another small town oozing charisma. You can rent a thatched roof cottage there. Had I only known. We caught a quick bite in Lisdoonavarna at pub.
Arriving back in Doolin we sought out someplace to eat. And did we find it! The Roadford House, a newly open eatery. We knew when we entered that this would be the most elegant and pricey meal we would have on our trip. But it was worth it. I had sea bass on a nest of baked onion; Michael indulged in Irish Black Angus with wild mushroom consommé. And we thought why not and shared an apple taffy crème brule, honey wafer, lemon sorbet. Brilliant, as the Irish might say.
Wednesday, September 12th
Ennis, Kinsale
Drove on to Kinsale by way of Ennis. Ennis boast a13th century Franciscan Friary and since we will leave no ruin unvisited we checked it out. Having filled up our gigabyte card in our Canon we asked a local for the closest camera shop and we bought an additional card. The sales person suggested we go to Dingle but our days we going by and we knew we had to choose between Kinsale and Dingle. We picked Kinsale.
Arriving in Kinsale we located Harbour Hill Farmhouse B&B with cows in the back yard, 4 minutes from town. Now to find lunch. We knew we had to go to the Fishy Fishy Café however we went down Port Rd. and couldn’t find it. Just as we were beginning to give up we noticed some store fronts hiding behind a park. That is where I had a glorious avocado and prawn delight with a glass of Kinsale lager.
After much looking Michael found a discount on a “Irish Grandfather” shirt, blue ticking with no collar. Stopped in the Kinsale Castle 1 (Desmond Castle) a 15th century towerhouse often used to house prisoners of war. It is also a wine museum since the castle was used a customs house for the import and export of wine. They keep tabs on the Winegeese Society. Expats spreading their wine talents to other parts of the world.
We chose Seanachai Bar & Restaurant for our musical pub outing. It had authentic pub ambiance except for the large screen TVs blasting the International Rugby championships, as one newscaster put it…”Rugby the only international sport Ireland dosen’t suck at”. The featuring musical artist was Dublin Peter a good singer who liked the ballads. It was packed we had been warned to get there early to get a seat, so we did. The barmaid resembled my niece TC. Red hair and a sparky demeanor.